REPTI ZOO 64-gal Wooden Reptile Terrarium, Yellow

Love the sleek look of this terrarium! As another reviewer mentioned, the glass panels were a tish short and, therefore, could (and did) easily pop out, which is why this otherwise great terrarium lost a star. To fix this problem, hubby installed 1mm-thick adhesive felt strip we had on hand, which he cut into 46" L x 1/4" W strips for the bottom track for each door. He initially thought that 2mm thick might be necessary, but 1mm did the trick! (2mm might work slightly better, but I caution against using anything thicker, as this would lift the glass doors too high and result in the same problem of them being prone to popping out of the tracks.) Following are details about optional modifications and meeting our ball python's environmental needs: For where we wanted to place the terrarium in relation to an outlet, we moved the wire-organizer grommet to the left-side panel. We then installed a vent (with bug screen) grommet in the hole of the right-side panel intended for the wire organizer. Due to the screw-clamp design of the wire-organizer grommet, we had to re-create a 3-1/8" diameter flat-bottom hole with a 2-3/4" center hole for the left-side panel. To make a flat-bottom hole, we used a 3" Forstner bit, followed by a fair bit of sanding to get it to 3-1/8." For the 2-3/4" hole, we used a hole saw bit. To clarify, the flat-bottom hole doesn't go all the way through the panel, whereas the 2-3/4" inner-hole does. (Sorry that I didn't think to take a pic before installing the grommets, but you can look up "flat-bottomed holes" if visuals help.) We also sealed the inside seams with GE 100% silicone with the tip cut at 45-degree angle for smoother application. We also placed a waterproof reptile-safe liner on the bottom since the terrarium will be a long-term, humid (50-70%) habitat. We think that it was worth the extra work to make these modifications, including a ventilated hood we'll soon build to hide the deep heat projector (DHP) and UVB light, as well as to better retain the heat and humidity. At max output, our 80W DHP sufficiently warmed just 1/3 of the terrarium, leaving the cool side too cool at 69-71 degrees in a room that ia an average of 70 degrees (except on sunny afternoons) during late-fall/winter. Therefore, we added an 11"x11" UltraTherm UTH. In the ambient zone, I adherred it to the liner with a glue stick to keep it in place and then set the thermostat to 88 degrees. (By the way, if interested in using a DHP, a dimmer thermostat, not pulse as used with heat mats, IS necessary. The only reptile thermostat with a dimming function we found in the USA is the HerpStat by Spyder Robotics. [We have the HerpStat2]).