Roudybush Daily Maintenance Nibles Bird Food, 44-oz bag

Feed as sole diet. Do not give vitamin or mineral supplements. Healthy treats may be given in moderate amounts if desired. Make sure your bird is eating the diet by evaluating its droppings.

Store in a cool, dry place. Do not store on concrete.

Ways to switch your birds over to pellets or crumbles:

1. Controlled Cold Turkey: This method may be used with finicky, resistant birds that are starting out a normal or excessive body weight. Remove all of their diet and fill the feeds with pellets. If you have the ability to weigh your bird, weight it first thing in the morning on the day of the switch and weight your bird every morning. If you bird loses more than 3-5% of its body weight, put it back on its old diet for 1 - 2 weeks, then try the switch again. If you are unable to weigh your bird, change the cage papers the day you make the switch and do not use litters, so you can evaluate droppings. If the fecal part of the dropping is small and dark green or black or if the droppings have no fecal portion, it means your bird is not eating. You can go for 2 full days for small species of birds and 3 full days for large species of birds. If your bird's droppings are still anorexic at the end of the switch period, put your bird back on its old diet for 1 - 2 weeks and then try the switch again. Most birds will switch the first time. The most finicky birds may take 3 attempts.

2. Gradual Switch: This technique works with birds that will try and eat many different foods. Mix 3/4 of the original diet with 1/4 of the Roudybush pellets or crumbles. Feed this mixture for one to 2 weeks. Increase the proportion of Roudybush to 1/3 and feed for one to 2 weeks. Continue increasing the proportion of Roudybush. When you reach 3/4 or more Roudybush, change the cage papers and do not use litter so you can evaluate droppings. If you see anorexic droppings (see description above in Controlled Cold Turkey), add more of the original diet for a week or two. This method is slower but safe for those owners who cannot closely monitor their birds.

3. Act as if you are eating the Roudybush. Many birds will try foods they see their owners eating. Many birds will like Roudybush pellets once they have tried them as treats from their owner and convert easily after that. Always make sure your bird's droppings indicate they are are eating once you completely make the switch to pellets.

The easiest thing to do is add limited amounts of Low-Fat to the Maintenance diet until he gets used to having less fat in his diet. As soon as he is used to one level of Low-Fat in his dish, increase the proportion of Low-Fat in steps until he is eating nothing but Low-Fat. It may help to mix the 2 kinds of feed for a minute or 2 to allow some of the fat from the Maintenance Diet to coat the Low-Fat feed.

Good food quality can be maintained by keeping your Roudybush foods cool and dry. Keeping the food cool prevents the fats from becoming rancid and also prevents the vitamins from being destroyed by oxidation. Keeping the food dry will avoid mold growth. Roudybush plastic pouches (44 oz., 22 oz., and 8 oz.) can be placed in the refrigerator to extend the use by date in 3 years or in the freezer to extend the use by date 6 years. When removing the food from the refrigerator or freezer it should be allowed to return to room temperature and then any condensation on the outside of the bag should be dried off before using. Roudybush feeds in paper bags (10, 25, and 50 lb) should be placed in a plastic bag and sealed before being placed in a refrigerator or freezer to extend the use by date. Again upon removing the food from the refrigerator or freezer let it return to room temperature and dry the condensation from the outer plastic bag before use. Roudybush products are labeled with a “Use By” date. This is not an expiration date but rather the date through which the food should remain wholesome if stored at room temperature.

The main ingredients in our Maintenance and Breeder diets are corn, wheat, and soy meal. To that we have added vitamin and mineral supplements, and an all natural preservative.

The Maintenance diet is best for birds at maintenance that are not overweight. If your birds are on the Maintenance diet, it is only necessary to switch them to the High-Energy Breeder diet if they will be raising their own chicks, or if the hen is laying an excessive number of eggs.

The diameter of the pellets are: Mini 3/32”, Small 5/32”, Medium ¼”, and Large is ½”.

Roudybush Maintenance Diet, the most commonly fed Roudybush Diet, is designed to be fed to most healthy adult birds. It is a single formulation that comes in 6 different pellet sizes allowing you to feed any pellet size they prefer. Typically, the best way to choose a pellet size is use the size of your bird’s beak as a guideline, feeding larger pellets to birds with larger beaks. For more help or suggestions on pellet size visit our Bird Food Selector.

We do, where it is appropriate. We have a diet specifically for hand-feeding squab, the young of pigeons and doves; a family of diets for feeding birds with specific nutrient requirements based on their health or condition; a family of diets for birds that have a high sugar intake, including lories and hummingbirds; both breeder and maintenance diets with greater or lesser amounts of fat; and hand-feeding diets for granivorous birds. We don’t make the popular species specific diets.

Birds have been eating pellets formulated by Tom Roudybush since1981. When Tom established Roudybush Feeds in 1985, he began donating feed for the cockatiel and Amazon flocks at UC Davis. This means that flocks of birds have been eating Roudybush Feeds since 1981.

No, but they can be part of it. Birds in the wild eat a variety of foods including other plant materials besides seeds and animal material such as insects and other small creatures. Some birds such as Keas will even attack sheep or other large animals. Birds will also vary their food intake to accommodate changes in nutrient requirements such as when they are feeding chicks, which require much more concentrated diets than their parents. Seeds alone do not provide all of the nutrients needed for growth or maintenance. Some of the nutrients required for maintenance are often deficient in seed diets and include vitamin A, vitamin D3, zinc, copper, manganese, calcium, sodium, vitamin B12, selenium and iodine. Growing birds would need other nutrients in addition including additional total protein, methionine, lysine, tryptophan, phosphorus, and some of the other vitamins. One other thing to keep in mind when we look at the diets of birds in the wild is that wild populations often fail. That is they either fail to produce young or in severe cases have high mortality of adults. When you look at what birds eat in the wild and use it as amodel for what they should eat in captivity, you may be choosing a year when young died in the nest or adults starved from difficult foraging conditions. Feeding a formulated diet allows you to avoid these potential problems and concentrate on other requirements of your birds.

There are 3 main reasons for this. Steam pelleting allows a milder processing of the feed preserving some nutrients that are destroyed by the higher temperatures and pressures of extrusion. These nutrients can be added in excess before extrusion or supplemented by application of nutrients after extrusion to overcome this issue, but we prefer to avoid the lack of control inherent in these processes when I can. Steam pelleting results in a denser pellet than is generally produced by extrusion. This allows the use of less packaging material and requires less storage space for the same weight of food. This results in less environmental impact from packaging manufacture and disposal and in easier handling all the way from us to you. The third reason for using steam pelleting is that it saves energy compared to extrusion. The steam pelleting process uses many times less energy than extrusion of the same amount of feed. This is, again, an environmental concern.

The main reason we don’t add sugar to our diets, except for the diets of birds adapted to high levels of sugar, is to avoid the growth of yeast. Yeast, Candida albicans, is a common oral and gut infection in birds. Birds resist yeast infections by passing the yeast through the gut at a rate that keeps the level of yeast low. In the presence of sugar, however, yeast thrives and multiplies and can infect a bird eating a diet containing sugar. If yeast infections are common in your bird or if you are treating a yeast infection in your bird now, eliminate sugar from the bird’s diet if possible. This will reduce the rate of reproduction of the yeast leading to easier resistance to or elimination of infection in your bird.

Colors in feed can cause a number of problems. Many birds will select specific colors out of the mix and avoid others leading to waste. The synthetic pigment used in many diets can stain the bird or furnishing in the area where the bird is kept. This has kept birds out of shows and led to expensive cleaning or dying of stained materials. These synthetic pigments also show up in your bird’s droppings and interfere with the use of droppings as a diagnostic tool by your veterinarian. At a critical time in your bird’s life this can result in a delay in diagnosis and treatment of a health issue.

Roudybush diets are safe to feed to your eclectus. In fact there are many eclectuses that thrive on Roudybush. Typically we recommend that your eclectus eat the Low-Fat Maintenance diet. Eclectus appear to be very sensitive to high fat levels in their diet and can appear to have dull or dark coloring when the fat level in their diet is too high.

Eclectus commonly overgrow the tip of their upper beak. This overgrowth does not appear to be diet related as it is commonly seen in eclectuses on many different types of diets. There has also been speculation that the overgrowth of an eclectus’ beak is actually due to liver disease. In some cases this is true but the vast majority of eclectus with overgrown beaks are actually quite healthy and do not have liver problems. Typically beak overgrowth due to liver disease looks very irregular. The beak will appear gnarled, have irregular surfaces, lumps or bumps, pitted surfaces, and be abnormally soft. If your bird’s beak appears healthy but is simply overgrown your veterinarian can easily trim your bird’s beak to prevent the overgrowth from impairing your bird’s ability to eat and function normally.

Occasionally we at Roudybush make an enhancement to our feed. Usually this goes unnoticed by you or your bird, since most of these enhancements keep us on the cutting edge of food safety and technology and is not major additions to the diet. An example of this is the inclusion of yeast cell wall extract. Yeast cell wall extract binds aflatoxin, an extremely toxic product of a mold. This mold is common and often grows on wet feed or foods. When a bird ingests aflatoxin from any source along with Roudybush Pellets, the aflatoxin is bound by the yeast cell wall extract and its toxicity to your bird is reduced or eliminated. Your bird remains happy, healthy and normal. You may have no idea that it was exposed to a potent toxin. This is what we strive for with our products-birds that remain happy, healthy and normal even when exposed to conditions that would otherwise harm them. However, upon occasion your bird, because of its exquisite abilities of discernment, will detect our enhancement. Because birds are such creatures of habit with respect to their choices of foods, they may reduce their food intake for a time when they detect an enhancement. Eventually they get used to the subtle change and return to a normal food intake. There is no reason for alarm. We have simply kept our product on the cutting edge, and your bird caught us at it.