Sheep Shearing: What to Know About This Woolly Practice

Sheep need their fleece to regulate body temperature and protect themselves from the elements.  

Wild sheep don’t need to be shorn, but domesticated sheep were bred to have wool that keeps on growing.   

“Wool sheep have been bred for thousands of years to grow wool that can be harvested and used by humans for clothing and bedding,” says Anne Shroeder, a professional sheep shearer who runs Star Gazing Farm Animal Sanctuary.  

Most sheep need their first shearing by age 1, though longwool breeds often need a trim as early as 6 months.  

Without this regular care, your sheep could end up with painful, matted fleece that causes skin irritation, contributes to overheating, and traps dirt, urine, and manure. 

Shroeder recommends shearing once a year in the spring, unless your sheep grow wool especially fast.  

While most sheep produce about 3 inches of wool annually, some breeds can grow 6 to 8 inches, which may require a second shearing in the fall.  

Sheep in warmer climates may require more frequent trims, too, because of the heat, Shroeder adds. 

There are a few key steps to help keep your sheep calm and comfortable during shearing:  

• Keep your sheep in a small holding area at least 12 hours before shearing.
• An empty stomach makes it easier for the shearer to move the sheep into various positions. Don’t let them eat anything—even staples like grass and hay—for 12 hours before shearing. 
• Set up a clean, flat, and well-lit shearing area close to the holding pen. It should be dry, sheltered from wind and rain, and shaded from direct sunlight. 

Most beginners use electric shears with a 13-tooth flat-edged comb, which is suitable for both lambs and adult sheep, Shroeder says.  

But it’s important that a professional teaches you how to use these clippers, which typically cost a few hundred dollars.   

“Most shears come with a comb and cutter set on them; all too often, they are not set correctly,” Shroeder says. “This means that if a person uses those shears right out of the box, they are almost sure to cut the animals.” 

Some people prefer to use hand shears for tricky areas, like around a ram’s horns, or until they are more comfortable with the electric ones.  

Either way, always get professional training before shearing your sheep.  

Shearing a sheep isn’t like grooming a dog. It’s a physically demanding job that requires an in-depth understanding of sheep anatomy, practiced footwork, and careful handling of sharp, fast-moving tools. 

“Shearing is a full-body sport,” Shroeder says, who has attended multiple shearing schools and now trains apprentices. You also must understand how to move the sheep around with your legs and body so that the sheep is comfortable and safe at all times, as well as how to stretch their skin to avoid cuts.

That’s why you should officially learn the trade before attempting to shear. 

Even seasoned sheep owners often leave the job to professionals. Jen Schurman, president of Shepherd’s Rest Goat & Sheep Rescue, doesn’t shear her own flock, especially her Babydoll sheep.  

“They have very short necks, which makes it hard to position them in a way that creates a flat surface for shearing without risking a nick,” she explains. 

If you’re determined to learn how to shear sheep, start with a reputable shearing school. A class offered by a university, such as this one offered by Cornell University, this one offered by the University of California, or this one from the University of Maine, is usually a good start. You should attend at least two classes before shadowing a mentor.  

If you don’t have the time or resources to dedicate to proper training, hire a professional shearer. However, you should book in the winter, when shearers tend to set their schedules for spring.   

Shroeder recommends approaching your sheep with a calm demeanor and using a soft voice. 

“Sheep are very attuned to potential predators,” Shroeder says, “which includes humans who loom over them, shout, wave their arms, or move suddenly.” She also suggests finding a quiet environment with no children or dogs to make sudden noises. 

When the sheep is facing the wall away from Schroeder, she gently reaches over and places a hand under their jawbone, which immobilizes them. “Before they know it, they’re sitting on their rump,” she says, which is the most relaxed position to begin the shearing process. 

Being as calm and gentle as possible is key. “My shearer is the most patient man in the world,” Schurman says. “He pauses about five times while shearing my Babydoll sheep, always talking to her and telling her she’s a beautiful girl.”  

Schroeder does not recommend calming aids or sedation, as they can make sheep more difficult to position and increase the risk of a cut.   

When done correctly, shearing isn’t painful—in fact, it can be a big relief.  

“They’ve been wearing a heavy wool coat, so it’s nice to have that gone,” Shroeder says. But if done without proper training and experience, shearing will be stressful, uncomfortable, and painful. 

When shearing sheep, you want to avoid:  

• Overheating or respiratory distress: If you notice your sheep is breathing heavily through their mouth or their tongue is hanging out, get them into a standing position and apply cool water to their head. Put a fan in front of them and let them rest until breathing returns to normal. If breathing doesn’t stabilize or the sheep collapses, call a veterinarian immediately. 
• Small nicks or cuts: Apply a topical spray to prevent infection. Schurman recommends Vetericyn Plus Antimicrobial Wound Care Spray. 
• Deep or long cuts: When properly sheared, sheep should not experience cuts; if they do, these require stitches. Call a veterinarian immediately. 
• Razor burn or irritated skin: Some sheep, especially those with thin or delicate skin, may develop redness or irritation after shearing. Consult your veterinarian immediately for how to treat this.  

Processing sheep’s wool is a labor-intensive activity, but there are plenty of uses for the raw wool.    

Here are a few ideas:  

• Wool pellets can be used to replace peat moss or compost.  
• Tufts of raw wool can be left in trees for birds to collect as insulating material for their nests. 
• Mulch made from raw wool can suppress weeds and retain soil moisture in garden beds. 
• Raw wool tucked into small gaps in outbuildings, chicken coops, or nesting boxes provides natural insulation. 
• Raw, clean wool can be used to stuff pillows, toys, or pet beds. 
• Raw wool can be felted into reusable dryer balls that help reduce static and cut down on drying time. 
• Raw wool can be donated to wildlife centers, where it’s used as soft bedding or nesting material. 

Always store raw wool in a dry, well-ventilated area to prevent mold or moth infestations. 

Shearing is stressful for sheep, so chances are they’re not a fan. However, it’s necessary for domestic sheep, and when done correctly, it’s often a relief—like taking off a heavy coat. Always hire a skilled, experienced shearer.  

If a sheep is not sheared, their fleece can become painfully matted, trapping dirt, urine, and manure. This irritates the skin, limits their mobility, causes pain, and leads to overheating.